Tuesday, March 8, 2016

El Nino provides

Journal Entry

2-26-16


So no shit there I was paddling as hard as I could out to the deep blue sea. “Viene un set” was all I heard as a friend Vicente paddled hard past me as I was keeping an eye out for an un-ridden wave slightly on the inside of a crowded day at Todos Santos. As I paddled hard I realized that this time I wasn’t going to make it up and over one of the bigger sets of the morning. The motions and nerves took over as I paddled. For the past month I trained for this moment. Spending the entire month in Baja, surfing 2-3 times a day, pushing myself during every swell that came my way, yoga in the morning and the evening and already with 2 solid sessions in at Todos under my belt during the past month I felt ready. I am no pro, I have surfed my whole life but the draw towards big waves felt strong this year.



My first session at Todos gave me the bug or addiction for more, for another big drop, another big wave. With the insight of some fellow big wave surfers I realized that my 8ft-6 inch gun I bought back in December wasn’t going to cut it for solid big waves. A buddy Quinn said, “Go big, at least a 9-6, but if you can why not just get a 10 foot gun?” The goal, to paddle into a giant wall of water, make the drop and hopefully come out standing in the channel. With Quinn’s help I was hooked up with Legendary shaper Gary Linden and he had a beautiful 10 foot gun that was slightly used. The board was shaped for recent Mavericks champ, Nic Lamb so it seemed light the right choice.



I picked the board up in Ensenada 2 weeks before this last big swell and eager to give it a test headed towards the docks in hopes of finding some guys heading out to Todos Santos Island. I knew that there was a crew of local guys camping on the island, so at very least maybe I just buck up and pay for the whole panga ride myself. To my luck there was a couple who were interested in checking out the famous big waves of Killers. We split the cost of the boat ride out through the fog, not sure what the surf, weather and conditions would be like. When we pulled through the channel I could see there were some solid sets, at least 15 foot. No one was out, maybe the crew had an epic day prior with a bit bigger surf. A bit nervous paddling out alone, I made my way into the line up. The day ended up being epic, surfing solo for about an hour or two before Vicente and another Mexican surfer paddled out. The conditions were not prime, but with no one out I could choose wisely and carefully which waves to take and had a fun safe session with no wipeouts.



Now back to my last session. Vicente invited me on a boat with a solid crew of chargers as we headed out to what was looking like an epic day of big solid surf. When we pulled up to the channel we saw the first set, beautiful 25foot face waves, with big wave surfer Rusty Long dropping into a bomb. The crowd was big so it was a bit harder getting a wave than my first few sessions with almost no crowd. My first wave was shared with Gary Linden, pretty special to share a wave with such a legend. 66 years young and still charging hard. Another wave after that than all I see is Vicente paddling as hard as he can towards the deep blue sea.


This is the “Oh Fuck” moment.



Go, paddle hard. When I realized I wasn’t going to make it my body and mind started going through the motions. Instinct took over. I paddled until that last moment then climbed on top of my board and dove as deep as I could. I kept my eyes open as I submerged deep and noticed I just barely made it under the explosion of chaos. But attached to my leg, by a strong 12 ft leash (Thank God for Stay Covered leashes) was my board. The leash went tight as the dragging started. It pulled me back quite a ways as I tried to stay calm. The life jacket I wore under my wetsuit slowly kicked in as I finally made my way to the surface for that beautiful breathe of air and the sight of the blue sky. As I got that first breathe of air I noticed the 2nd wave of the set was heading right towards me. For a moment I got a glimpse of a rescue jest ski and felt a relief. But then I noticed he wasn’t coming for me but instead for another surfer who had a broken leash and was a bit deeper than I was.



I tried to slow my breathing and calm myself as another wall of whitewash, maybe 30 feet was heading directly towards me. This time because of spent energy I didn’t get as deep of a dive and I was dragged for what felt like an eternity. In my past 9 seasons as a whitewater kayaker I have taken some big swims, one of the most notable being on the Zambezi River on rapid #9, commercial suicide at high flows. When the Zambezi ripped my body from my kayak and I went into the black unknown, I eventually re surfaced and made my way through the rest of the rapid. This beating at Todos felt like a step above that one. As that second wave dragged me all I could do was try and stay calm, knowing that I was wearing a PFD and that it should eventually bring me to the surface. When the PFD seemed like it was of no help and my lungs where burning I clawed my hands toward my lower leg and leash which was attached to my board. When the rinsing cycle slowed a bit I was able to climb up my leash to the surface for a breathe of air.



Thank God. But as sets go there is usually more than two waves. I took another 2 wave smashing, pretty much just lying there and letting them push me further and further towards the inside. Not wanting to get pushed into the rocks on the inside I did my best to climb back on my board and stroke towards the channel before the next one hit me. When I made it safely to the channel I sat there and caught my breathe and realized that this is a very true cost of surfing big waves, Big wipeouts and Big Hold downs. But like all athletes that push a sport, the rewards are beyond description sometimes. I took a break on the boat and as the crowd slowly thinned out later in the day I made my second go and got a handful of beautiful waves. I was stoked to be part of an epic crew and a special day of waves, also pretty happy to come back to the casa and have little Charlie excited to see me. My Life in February: Baja, Friends, Family, a puppy and some epic surf.


First Session








Quinn Campbell, RIP to a great board. Broken in 2 after this big one.

La Isla

Quinn and I happy to scratch over this one.

2nd wave of my last session

JoJo Roper on a bomb



Afternoon beauty. Photo: Chris Corona
Vicente on a gem


Thanks Chris Mumford for Iphone photos










Offshore days at the Casa

The point in a beautiful offshore morning

Charlie and the catch of the day


Scotty and Birthday beers

Yep the little guy likes fish

Christmas in February, Hand shaped by Gary Linden 10 footer


videoIphone video of first session with new board



Sunday, December 6, 2015

Photos of Road trip south

A view from the road south from BC. Coastal Oregon, kayaking fall releases, good living.

First view of the oregon coast










Burnt Ranch race


Tobin Race
Pitt Falls


Another Summer

Another Summer has come and gone. A full circle that started last spring in Mexico then the road trip North to BC and now back south. Here are some photos and Journal writing of some of the adventures.

Journal entries

April 26, 2015
Rio Nexpa, Michoacán Mexico

Back at Rio Nexpa after a few years. It felt really good to board that plane in TJ and land in Colima a few days back. After finishing up an amazing trip on the Grand Canyon, the following week was a bit emotional. My Grandma Riggs waited until I returned to take her last breath and let me say goodbye. It was nice to see her one last time and hold her hand and say farewell even though she couldn’t respond. She was such an remarkable lady and truly loved her family. The week in San Diego was a special time of remembering family and paying tribute to a lady who loved me so much. I will always be grateful for the relationship I shared with my Grandma. She always stood by my side and supported me in any endeavor I choose.

So now I sit on the top floor of our room, coffee by my side, journal in hand, with nothing but the beautiful Pacific out front. I am back at a familiar place, but this time with Kanami-chan. The feeling I get when I am in Mexico is overwhelmingly warm. I feel back at home, comfortable, happy to eat tacos, drink licuados and sleep to the sound of the ocean.

The first few surfs have been in the fun 3-4ft range and today picking up a bit. It is great to be back on the “Chorbel” pace of Mexy life. Wake up late, cafesito, surf session and then a big brunch at Chichos. Good livin in Mexico.

April 20, 2015

Rio Nexpa, Mexico

I sit here in Paradise, one more morning, one more cafesito and one more journal entry. I love how traveling brings you to meet new faces and to see old familiar ones as well. The other day when Kanami and I were taking a walk up the point, I noticed two vans pull right up to the edge of the river mouth and park. I looked over to Kanami to tell her, “I think I know who is in that van.” Jono Slade and his crew pull out and we walk up and embraces are exchanged. Jono is a rafting buddy from the Kern River who is on a six month journey to Central America and we happen to cross paths. Small beautiful world we live in. Beers and good food are had at Mary Jane’s Restaurant. Talk of the Road and travel fills the night. The next morning we all pick off some fun lefts and then have breakfast at camp.

I get so stoked when friends are out there living the dream. The work was put in, they prepared the vehicles and the journey is in place, this makes me happy.
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May 3, 2015
Manzinillo Bus station

It is 11:20pm and we are waiting to board our bus for Puerto Vallarta and on to Scott and Vanessa‘s epic wedding weekend. Our last stop was my lovely Pascuales. With the rising swell and  lack of rooms at Nexpa, we headed north. On arrival Kiwi Dave received us with open arms, cold cervezas and talk of the largest swell of the decade. We met a group of guys who are down for the big summer surf. I didn’t leave getting the barrel of my life, but I did paddle out on a borrowed 9ft gun in some massive surf. I managed to catch one wave and made it to the bottom before bailing and then have to swim in after my board. It felt like I was swimming the Zambezi with no life jacket, scary shit. The three other guys that did paddle out that day all had some sort of PFD or floatation device. After I made it back to shore I decided to call it a day.

Over the weekend we were able to witness some massive waves and barrels. The whole pro scene of surfers were all using jet skis and doing step offs. But a few brave warriors gave a go with solo paddle power. The ocean was producing a crazy amount of energy, easily 25ft waves.

The force of the giant swell and the high tides also brought quite the destruction to some of the local establishments of the area. Yesterday after our morning surf we all pitched in at Dave’s place to build a barrier in front of the property. We dug trenches, piled tires and sand bags to make a blockade so we could deflect incoming tide and waves. All of us waiting around for the high tide to peak at 5:00pm and it appeared that our work was saving the place. Then later on in the evening while we were down the road eating at Freddy’s Hambergesa stand, Nature made her big push.

The increasing swell brought waves and water through most of the beachfront properties, including Dave’s place. The water knocked straight over our wall with the push of one big wave. There were a few of the Kiwi surfers around and Pols, Daves son, as one 4ft wall of whitewater washed all through the property wreaking havoc. Luckily the guys all sought refuge while jumping and hanging from the beams of the cabana as the wave washed under them. By this time the whole town is on high alert, incoming pro surfers and their entourage are leaving hotels and seeking safer options in the city.

Dave comes back to the Hamburger shack, which is in a safe zone, and just says “It’s Fucked.” Mother Nature was in full swing and she did not seem to be letting down. We ran back through the police blockade towards Dave’s to try and save what we could. We did our best to salvage what we could, putting boards up on the platform, then Juj came back with the truck and we loaded all the most valuable; fridge, tools, cables, fishing gear, jet ski on the trailer, anything we could quickly grab before another rogue wave would come. It was absolute chaos what the ocean was doing. It was sad to see the damage down to the town, but impressive to see the force of what the ocean can do. Respect.

Photos of Mexico:





Summer time goodness in BC: